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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.